In the river of time: a conceptual rethinking of the Adyghe women’s costume in the work of Madina Saral’p

Abstract

The article is devoted to the analysis of the work of the leading Caucasian fashion designer Madina Saral’p as an example of a modern conceptual reinterpretation of the traditional Adyghe women’s costume. The purpose of the study is to explore the creative method of Madina Saral’p, identify the main concepts underlying her approach to the interpretation of traditional costume, and understand its significance for the contemporary artistic process. The study is driven by the need to explore the phenomenon of post-ethnic design, where the national costume becomes not just an object of museum representation but a living medium that conveys profound meanings. The novelty of the study lies in the comprehensive art-historical analysis of Madina Saral’p’s work, which considers her creations not only as examples of high fashion but also as works of conceptual art, as well as in the interpretation of her approach as a gentle deconstruction of the traditional canon.

The material for the study comprises museum and private collections, alongside works by Madina Saral’p presented at her Art Centre, international exhibitions, and in her own publications. The research methodology includes formal and stylistic analysis, a semiotic approach to interpreting the costume’s cultural codes and signs as a text, as well as historical, cultural, and philosophical perspectives. Unlike earlier ethnographic studies that focused on the everyday aspects of the costume, this article explores it as a tool for contemporary artistic expression. The work focuses on such key concepts of the designer’s creativity as the architectonics of the silhouette, the semiotics of details, the philosophy of the ‘invisible’ and ‘silence’ in clothing, as well as the use of modern technologies while preserving the ancient logic of form. The article’s findings demonstrate that Madina Saral’p does not simply reconstruct the past; she creates a futuristic project of national identity by synthesizing the artistic traditions of the Adyghe people with current trends in global art, elevating the costume of her ethnic group beyond craftsmanship into the relevant conceptual space of contemporary culture.