No. 4 (23) (2021), Eurasian Heritage
No. 4 (23) (2021)

On the transformation of the Kalmyk costume in the second half of the 20th century – the beginning of the 21st century

Eurasian Heritage
УДК 745/749(470.47) DOI: https://doi.org/10.46748/ARTEURAS.2021.04.001
Published 2021-12-29
Delgr Vladimirovna Sangadzhieva
Kalmyk Republic Office All-Russian Creative Public Organization “Union of Artists of Russia”, Elista, Russian Federation
maildelgr@yandex.ru
Выпуск № 4 (23) журнала «Искусство Евразии»
HTML (Russian)
PDF (Russian)
HTML (Russian)
PDF (Russian)

Keywords

kalmyk folk costume, national identity, art of Kalmykia, ornament zeg, ethnic style

Categories

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

How to Cite

Sangadzhieva, D.V. (2021) ‘On the transformation of the Kalmyk costume in the second half of the 20th century – the beginning of the 21st century: УДК 745/749(470.47)’, The Art of Eurasia, (4), pp. 10–25. doi:10.46748/ARTEURAS.2021.04.001.
ABNT ACM ACS APA Chicago Harvard IEEE MLA Turabian Vancouver Eurasia Art

Download Citation

Endnote/Zotero/Mendeley (RIS) BibTeX

Индексация статей

Белый списокScience IndexDimensionsDOAJOpenAlexScilitКиберЛенинкаEBSCOCrossrefDataCiteInternet Archive ScholarGoogle Scholar
Open Access
Антиплагиат

* Not an advertisement

Abstract

The research is devoted to the study of the specifics of the existence of the Kalmyk costume in the second half of the 20th century – the beginning of the 21st century in Kalmykia, comparing the elements of cut and methods of decoration in traditional samples of folk costume with the design and decor in scenic national costumes and in the artistic stylization of author's clothing models in ethnic style. The material for the study was the costumes from the collections and archives of Russian museums and private collections. The object of the study is the Kalmyk costume, its aesthetic and semantic dominant, as a marker of national identity and a repeater of traditional values. The aim of the study is to identify transformational processes in the existence of the Kalmyk folk costume in the second half of the 20th century – the beginning of the 21st century, as well as for the first time recorded changes in technological features in the creation of decor and examples of the introduction of foreign cultural elements into the structure of everyday and scenic folk costume, which carry with them a modification of the meanings and functionality of elements of the national costume. The author fixes the process of substitution of traditional crafts in the manufacture of elements of folk costume, in the context of the development of scientific and technological progress, using modern technologies for creating clothing decor, in the author's collections of ethnic fashion in Kalmykia. The article introduces into scientific circulation data on folk masters, artists, designers working in the field of folk costume, recorded samples of national clothing created by them and its variations.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.46748/ARTEURAS.2021.04.001

Acknowledgments

The article was prepared with the support of the All-Russian Public Organization “Association of Art Critics” as part of the scholarship program for 2021.

References

  1. Aduchiev Ts.M. Vladimir Khantashov [Vladimir Khantashov]. Khudozhniki Kalmykii [Artists of Kalmykia]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 1979. 15 р. (In Russian).
  2. Badmaev A. U. Vozrozhdennaya kul'tura [Revived culture]. Elista, Dzhangar Publ., 2006, 187 p. (In Russian).
  3. Bakaeva E.P. Odezhda v kul'ture kalmykov: traditsii i simvolika [Clothing in the culture of the Kalmyks: traditions and symbols]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 2008. 189 p. (In Russian).
  4. Bakaeva E.P. Odezhda i ukrasheniya [Clothing and jewelry]. Bakaeva E.P., Zhukovskaya N.L. (eds.). Kalmyki [Кalmyks]. Moscow, Nauka Publ., 2010. 568 p. (In Russian).
  5. Batyreva K.P. Kalmytskii narodnyi kostyum v svete ehtnicheskoi identichnosti [Kalmyk folk costume in the light of ethnic identity] Kul'tura, iskusstvo, khudozhestvennoe obrazovanie: regional'nye osobennosti, traditsii, novatsii. Sbornik statei [Culture, art, art education: regional peculiarities, traditions, innovations. Collection of articles]. Makhachkala, Alef Publ., 2014, pp. 48–52. (In Russian).
  6. Batyreva K.P. Ehtnokul'turnye dominanty v formirovanii ehstetiki kalmytskogo narodnogo kostyuma. [Ethnocultural dominants in the formation of the aesthetics of Kalmyk folk costume. Cand. of philos. sci. diss.]. Moscow, S. n., 2004. 27 p. (In Russian).
  7. Batyreva K.P. Kalmytskii kostyum v prizme obrazno-znakovoi sistemy buddizma [Kalmyk costume in the prism of the figurative-symbolic system of Buddhism]. Iskusstvo Evrazii — The Art of Eurasia, 2019, no. 4 (15). pp. 66–79. DOI: 10.25712/ASTU.2518-7767.2019.04.006. (In Russian).
  8. Batyreva S.G. Narodnoe dekorativno-prikladnoe iskusstvo kalmykov XIX – nachala XX vekov [Folk decorative and applied art of the Kalmyks of the 19th – early 20th centuries]. Elista, Dzhangar Publ., 2006. 160 р.. (In Russian).
  9. Batyreva S.G., Gantulga D. Tsvet i prostranstvo v traditsionnoi kul'ture oiratov Mongolii i kalmykov Rossii [Color and space in the traditional culture of the oirats of Mongolia and the Kalmyks of Russia]. Secreta Artis, 2021, no. 4 (2), pp. 86–95. (In Russian). DOI: https://doi.org/10.51236/2618-7140-2021-4-2-86-95. Available at: https://www.secreta-artis.ru/jour/article/view/191 (accessed 06.12.21). (In Russian).
  10. Bentkovskiy I.V. Zhenshchina-kalmychka Bol'shederbetskogo ulusa v fiziologicheskom, religioznom i sotsial'nom otnosheniyakh [Kalmyk woman of the Bolshederbet ulus in physiological, religious and social relations]. Sbornik statisticheskikh svedenii o Stavropol'skoi gubernii [Collection of statistical information about the Stavropol province]. Stavropol, 1869 Issue 2, pp. 141–167. (In Russian).
  11. Bentkovskiy I.V. Odezhda kalmykov Bol'shederbetskogo ulusa [Clothes of Kalmyks of Bolshederbetsky ulus]. Sbornik statisticheskikh svedenii o Stavropol'skoi gubernii [Collection of statistical information about the Stavropol province]. Stavropol, 1869. Issue 2, pp. 123–139 (In Russian).
  12. Boldyreva A.V. Naiti svoi stil' [Find your style]. Bairta, 2020, no. 3, pp. 33–35. (In Russian).
  13. Bul Zh.M. Kalmytskii kostyum i stsena [Kalmyk costume and stage]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 1993. 73 p. (In Russian).
  14. Bul Zh.M. Ehpos “Dzhangr” i kalmytskii stsenicheskii kostyum [Epic “Dzhangr” and Kalmyk stage costume]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 1997. 80 p. (In Russian).
  15. Vaskin G.S. Vidy kalmytskogo ornamenta i ikh opisanie [Types of Kalmyk ornament and their description]. Dordzhieva D.B. (ed.). Kalmytskii narodnyi ornament [Kalmyk folk ornament]. Elista, Gerel Publ., 2010, рр. 33–178. (In Russian).
  16. Zhitetskii I.A. Ocherki byta astrakhanskikh kalmykov: Ehtnogr. nablyudeniya 1884–1886 gg. [Essays on the life of the Astrakhan Kalmyks: Ethnographic observations of 1884–1886]. Moscow, tip. of M.G. Volchaninov, 1893. 75 p. (In Russian).
  17. Kalmytskie mastera rekonstruirovali tsegdg iz fondov muzeya zapovednika [Kalmyk craftsmen reconstructed the tsegdg from the funds of the museum reserve]. Astrakhanskaya oblast'.RF. Available at: https://economy.astrobl.ru/news/110550 (accessed 07.12.2021). (In Russian).
  18. Nebol'sin P.I. Ocherki byta kalmykov Khoshoutovskogo ulusa [Essays on the life of the Kalmyks of the Khoshutovsky ulus]. St. Petersburg, tip. of K. Kraiya, 1852. 383 p. (In Russian).
  19. PMA 1992. Polevye materialy. Vas'kina Eh.B. informant, Elista, pensionerka, 89 let [PMA 1992. Field materials. Informant Vaskina Erenzen Badminovna]. Notes 16.07.1992. notebook 1., 4 p. (In Russian).
  20. Sychev D.V. Iz istorii kalmytskogo kostyuma [From the history of the Kalmyk costume]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 1973. 167 p. (In Russian).
  21. Sychev D. V. Khal'mg ulsin ehrdm = Kalmytskoe narodnoe iskusstvo. Albom [Kalmyk folk art. Album]. Elista, Ministerstvo kul'tury Kalmytskoi ASSR Publ., 1971. 111 p. (In Russian).
  22. Ubushaev V.B. Osushchestvlenie operatsii «Ulusy» v Kalmykii [Implementation of operation „Uluses“ in Kalmykia]. Bakaev P.D., Bugai N.F., Burchinova L.S. (eds.). Ssylka kalmykov: kak ehto bylo. Kniga pamyati ssylki kalmytskogo naroda [Deportation of Kalmyks: how it was. The Book of memory of the exile of the Kalmyk people]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 1993. Vol. 1. 264 p. (In Russian).
  23. Favorskiy V.A. Kak ya rabotal na “Dzhangarom” [How I worked on “Dzhangar”]. Tserenov V.Z. (ed.). Mir ehposa [The World of the Epic]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 1991, pp. 58–67. (In Russian).
  24. Chervonnaya S.M. Dmitrii Sychev [Dmitry Sychev]. Khudozhniki Kalmykii [Artists of Kalmykia]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 1979, pp. 22–24. (In Russian).
  25. Chudak G.S. Kalmytskie tantsy [Kalmyk dances]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 1966. 75 p. (In Russian).
  26. Ehrdniev U.E., Maksimov K.N. Kalmyki. Istoriko-ehtnograficheskie ocherki [Kalmyks. Historical and ethnographic essays]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo Publ., 2007. P. 281. (In Russian).
  27. Ehrendzhenov K.Eh. Zolotoi rodnik: O kalm. nar. tvorchestve, remeslakh i byte [Golden spring: About Kalmyk folk art, crafts and everyday life]. Elista, Kalmytskoe knizhnoe izdatel'stvo, 1985. 127 p. (In Russian).
  28. Ehrendzhenova L.V. Kalmytskii stil' Oksany Nemgirovoi [Kalmyk style by Oksana Nemgirova]. Bairta, 2020, no. 10, pp. 20–22. (In Russian).
  29. Ehrendzhenova L.V. Stepnaya biznes-ledi [Steppe business lady]. Bairta, 2019, no. 2, pp. 33–35. (In Russian).

Most read articles by the same author(s)